Restaurantology

Bored - The Breslin - 16 W. 29th, b/tw BWay & 5th Aves

2010-03-04T21:03:00.000-08:00

I realized I was bored with the NY restaurant scene upon my first visit to the Breslin. One of the most anticipated, awaited restaurant openings of 2009 in NYC and, frankly, I just felt played. I've seen this artisanal-burger, faux euro-comfort food movie before, and I somewhat resent the piped-in Arcade Fire, Cold Play soundtrack that screams you're 30-something, living in NY, trying to be a non-chalant hipster, but really working for and making enough money to support a family of six. I was a living cliche the first try. Tonight was my second try and I can't say that it's gotten much better, as with all of the buzz and it being one of the hardest rezzies to score right now, the Breslin is overrun with diners, drinkers, happy hour revelers, too many Wall Streeters and, dare I say it, too many boys! More importantly, the food--assuming you can choose something from the eclectic menu that actually really tempts your palate--while packed with flavor, is overly salted and not at all subtle, elegant, or refined. Actually, just give me real, earthy, flavorful, natural and not overwrought, and I don't need elegant or refined at all. I will come clean, though, and admit that the food and NY restaurant scene has failed to deliver much inspiration for me as of late. This must be a winter malaise and reflective of a season in which it's much better to just cook at home, but from my winter rundown so far--Sorella, Corsino, Balthazar, Spotted Pig, Maialino, Travertine, Minetta Tavern, Faustina and Breslin, twice, the only true highlights were Travertine's glam decor and milk-braised, pork-shoulder gnocchi and Minetta Tavern's cozy bar area and perfectly-fired filet mignon with Roquefort cheese. Breslin doesn't even hit the radar screen, unfortunately. Been there. Done that. And don't want to be smacked in the face with it.

JL Far West - Joseph Leonard - 170 Waverly Place at Grove St.

2009-12-09T21:04:00.000-08:00

A few disclaimers: Joseph Leonard's chef is a friend of a friend, he sent over a complimentary appetizer and, more importantly, he offered me a support-staff spot in his kitchen for "Cochon Sundays". JL is definitely a restaurant that you want to spend time in, particularly if you live in or near the West Village. It's small, cozy, and warm, but still hip, buzzing and friendly. It's the Spotted Pig part deux, but focused on ensuring that you'll dine rather than just drink - there's no real drinking bar here and they'll move you out of seats at "le zinc" if you're not actually having a meal. I plan to go next for brunch on a Sunday, to fuel myself before heading into the kitchen to help (probably just watch) the cochon preparation, for said Cochon Sundays. Every Sunday, the chef prepares a pig, head to tail, in varying styles, depending on the part of the pig. As the dishes and parts of the pig sell out, they are crossed off a chalk board in the dining room, which shows a pig in full and the various cuts of pork its body comprises. It's a cute concept to generate demand and urgency of consumption. I like everything about JL, and will head back there and encourage you to try it too, but I cannot lead you astray on the food: there are high points and low points. Lucky for me, one of the high points was my entree of baked and braised rabbit (yes, I ate a bunny) with sausage and fava beans. The dish was flavored well, tender and moist and the meat explosion was balanced well by the starchy beans and some wilted greens. Our appetizer of octopus and white bean salad, on the other hand, was disappointing, given the miniscule portion of octopus (this is one of the cheap fish, folks, be generous with it!) and the overcooked beans. And, not to look a gift horse in the mouth, but our complimentary appetizer of bone marrow bruschetta was relatively flavorless, other than the well-oiled bread and smothering of capers. I was unaware that bone marrow could actually be flavorless?? Nevertheless, chef McDuffee, who heralds from Thomas Keller's Bouchon, "gets it", seems to be fearless with food and understands service and vibe. With a few tweaks here and there and some time to let JL hit its stride, my prediction is that this is one of the great spots in the City that hits that fine-tuned balance of extreme comfort and refined cuisine. I'm going back.

Good Grief - Hotel Griffou - 21 9th St., b/tw 5th & 6th Aves.

2009-11-27T21:54:00.000-08:00

Whatever you do, do not go to Hotel Griffou for the food. It's been a while since I've had as near an upalatable meal in New York City as dinner tonight at Griffou. The menu is caught between lots of lobster and some, supposed, American classics, e.g. Steak Diane (was this ever considered good eating and was it ever really acceptable to serve this outside of the home?) The selection is poor and among what we chose (lobster thermidor fondue, lobster succotash, duck confit poutine, pork cutlets and salad nicoise) there was not a discernable flavor among any of the dishes other than maybe salt and/or fat. Frankly, I really just assumed that it was all flavored with MSG, given that everything was saucy, glistening and maybe narcotically flavorful, but truly just disgusting. Also, unless you're willing to go $150 or above on the wine, there are not many choices on the list and I'm pretty sure the insipid $75 bottle of Sancerre we had, retails for about $14. Food-wise, Griffou is extremely disappointing and I'm not sure how a kitchen in Manhattan, serving $27 entrees, could get it this wrong. Nevertheless, I'm clear on why they get away with it: Griffou has appeal and intrigue in its ambience, which is clandestine, cozy and varied in that there are six rooms, all decorated differently. Moreover, it's a "scene" and somehow has become a hot-bed for celebrities. A few months ago a friend went and shared in JLo's birthday dinner. Tonight, a friend spotted Sienna Miller. I doubted my friend, until I saw Jude Law walk in the front door, probably fresh from his performance in Hamlet (which is great by the way, but I'll stick with the food critiquing). Not only did we get a good, long look at Mr. Law, but I think we got some scoop too--spotting Jude and Sienna in the same place. Is it reconciliation? Whatever it is, call out to all celebs: please demand better in your food. NYC has so much more to offer than stylized joints, like Griffou, that serve the expensive equivalent of greasy nachos and wings. If you want to check out the scene, go for drinks only.

Disappointment on the West Coast - The Slanted Door, 1 Ferry Building, #3, San Franciso, CA

2009-11-14T17:36:00.000-08:00

Expectations are admittedly high when you've been reading about a restaurant for several years, it's been labeled as one of the iconic restaurants in the U.S. and you make a trip across country to celebrate your father's 65th birthdy and your sister's 40th birthday at this very restaurant. Correcting for high expectations, my slant on the the Slanted Door was that it is disappointing, average at best, and riding on a brand name that it created a decade-plus ago when it was a small, unique spot in the Mission district in San Francisco, established by a Vietnamese immigrant focused on delivering authentic Vietnamese food with fresh local ingredients. Fast forward to 2009, The Slanted Door is a behemoth space in the Ferry Building with minimal character and soul (my father's assessment: an intimate restaurant transmogrified into an airplane hangar) it's noisy and cold and our table was, unfortunately, too close to the open, jarringly-bright kitchen. The service was seemingly overwhelmed, and unattentive as a result, and the food was nothing special. In fact, I was having trouble discerning it from anything I've had at other, non-descript, Vietnamese or even pan-Asian spots. If I had to choose some food highlights, perhaps the green papaya salad (but you can get this anywhere) and the Berkshire pork chop with a shallot, ginger soy-sauce. The daikon rice cake was mushy, the dumplings were unrecognizable as dumplings, the glass noodles were coagulated and the chicken clay-pot, which was talked up quite a bit, seemed to be flavored with no more than soy and black pepper. I was truly disappointed. What I was pleased by, though, was the wine selection: Riesling-heavy for the spice in the food. We had two German Rieslings, one floral and dry and the other purely sweet and both went fabulously with the food - a bright spot in an otherwise lackluster dining experience.

Drinking in Church? - Tipsy Parson, 156 9th Ave., b/tw 19th & 20th

2009-11-05T21:40:00.000-08:00

I think I met Tipsy Parson down south while in college and no surprise he (she?) made it up north and is now cooking southern-ish comfort food in Chelsea. Only a week or so old, I hand it to Tipsy Parson for having things relatively in order. They didn't have a reservation available for my group of five for primetime on a Thursday night, but after I left my number and suggested if they could figure something out, they should give me a call back - they actually did! This never happens. The hostess worked hard once we got there and, despite her page-long list of names, reassured us she would "make it happen". She did make it happen, and I give her credit for that, but we sat almost two hours after we arrived, at which time I was about ready to gnaw my arm off. Which brings me to the food. Tipsy Parson was a good meal, with some bright highlights: the hush puppies and their pungent vinegary sauce; the blue cheese, served with figs and pancetta, but also made by students of animal husbandry at Clemson University (South Carolina for those of you who have never been south of the Mason Dixon line. But maybe one of you can tell me what animal husbandry actually is?) and the braised pork shank with stewed apples and prunes. I couldn't get too excited about the food, though, or Tipsy Parson overall, as it fits a mold that is already getting a little moldy in the NY dining scene: southern, comfort, locavore-ish, down-homeish cuisine. Case in point - for the second time in less than a week, I saw a Concord grape mint julep on the drink list and a glammed-up mac and cheese and braised shank of something on the dinner menu. I succumbed to the shank and didn't regret it, but overall wanted something more interesting. Tipsy Parson is worth a try, but unfortunately this jaded palate, seeking newness, boldness and innovation, needs more than just a good meal.

Don't Find Yourself in a Dark Alley Unless it's...Freeman's - Freeman's Alley, off Rivington, b/tw Bowery & Christie Sts.

2009-10-29T20:23:00.000-07:00

Folks, I'm going to level with you, the food at Freeman's is not great--only ok at best, although striving for the right things--but Freeman's is a spot you want to try to feel like you've had a NY dining experience or an experience in NY at all. Freeman's has been open since 2004 and I've been there several times, but there's always a small thrill in even finding the spot that is off of an alley, aptly named Freeman's alley, off of Rivington St. on the Lower East Side. NYers (myself included) are notorious for wanting to be the first to find and try something new and then be able to talk about it unabashedly. I tried Freeman's in 2004 after moving back to NY from spending a year in London and upon finding the spot and entering the den (or really a lair, given the taxidermy on the walls) of a restaurant, I felt justified in shunning lovely Europe for forever-striving and pushing-the-envelope NYC. I recall the food being much better back then - there was something on the menu with butternut squash and sour cream that was just divine - but again, it was never ultimately about the food. It was and is about the fact that Freeman's is still clandestine in its locale, hip and cutting edge in its ambience, staff and clientele (I liked the Nick Rhodes thing that the hostess was trying to pull off) and now four times the size of the original, but still cozy, hunting lodge-esque and serving artisanal cocktails and very tolerable food. Good luck finding it, but go with friends, enjoy the scene, the cocktails and the artichoke dip, reserve the back room for a birthday celebration, but don't expect culinary wizardry.

Could do Better - Civetta - 98 Kenmare b/tw Lafayette & Mulberry

2009-10-22T20:23:00.000-07:00

New York does not need another French bistro/brasserie mock-up nor another Italian, faux-rustic trattoria. For Italian, we can survive just fine with Morandi, Gemma, Il Buco and so many others that Civetta is just one more entrant in an already crowded scene. Civetta, unfortunately, does not stand out--neither with its decor, which is only a meager imitation of Gemma, nor with its food, which I found very salty, ill-conceived, and really only a step-up from any average Italian joint you'd find in any city in this country. Dare I say, only a step-up from the Olive Garden? The service was fine, but unnoticeable when you're striving to find something redeeming in the food. Just when you think all hope is lost, though, there is still reason to go to Civetta and that is the downstairs lounge. As I was finishing dinner, at a "respectable" (read early) hour with friends and friend's parents from out of town, it was clear that anyone entering the restaurant was really headed for the lounge downstairs and probably didn't even know that Civetta serves food. The lounge is a sizeable, but still cozy space with bar on one side and a grotto of booths on the outer walls. Add a DJ, stiff cocktails and a crowd dressed and liquored for Thursday night in NYC and you have yourself one little hotspot. Civetta, enjoy, but no dining allowed.

Flies in the Buttermilk - Buttermilk Channel - 524 Court St., Brooklyn

2009-10-15T19:42:00.000-07:00

I made my bi-annual sojourn to Brooklyn last night to try Buttermilk Channel, one of several restaurants in the borough that have been billed as "must tries". I am admittedly a tough sell, skeptical that the growing restaurant scene in Brooklyn and the other boroughs is superseding Manhattan in creativity, innovation and sheer prolificacy (don't worry, it's a word, I looked it up). While I wasn't thoroughly disappointed by BMC, it didn't make me a borough convert either. The ambience is somehow stark, despite warm lighting and country, farmhouse decor. The service was attentive and friendly, but the food was uneven. The chef knows how to season, although not subtly, and while my pork shoulder was tasty and had a great, crispy crust, it was ultimately a bad cut of meat, leaving it difficult to discern even an ounce of meat among the fat and sinew. There were other disappointments too: my friend's fried chicken and waffles, in her experienced words, tasted "reheated" and "fast-foodish". On the other hand, the duck meatloaf, also ordered at our table, did not get enough attention. I found it a perfect meaty density, but still juicy and succulent (which is difficult to achieve in a meatloaf) with just the right amount of savory herbs. Overall, Buttermilk Channel is worth a try, but I couldn't help but think that it was a only reasonable facsimile for the Market Tables, Little Owls and even Irving Mills of Manhattan. I am a tough sell, but BMC will not, unfortunately, shake me from my bi-annual Brooklyn schedule.

Got to Go - Gottino - 52 Greenwich Ave., b/tw Perry & Charles Sts.

2009-09-29T19:18:00.000-07:00

Good for a first date, a catch-up over glass of wine with a friend or just solo for a quick wind down on a week night, Gottino is a great "go-to" Italian wine bar, with an impressive and delicious small plate menu and a small, but well-selected wine list by the bottle and glass. A narrow space, with only a handful of relatively cramped tables, it's all about sitting at the marble bar, soaking in the wine and food knowledge of the bar keeps and taking in the farmhouse rustic and Italian kitchen atmosphere - I loved the piles of apples, chilis, and quince (I had to ask what these were) on the bar and downstairs in the wine cellar area. The menu offers a selection of cheeses, cured meats, crostini, vegetables and some hot small plates. Nothing is run of the mill - no Caprese salad on this menu - but, for example, wild boar country pate or cotechino (a blended pork sausage from the north) in roasted apples. The pate and artichoke crostini washed down with two glasses of the Oderro Barbera D'Alba made for a thoroughly tasty and filling dinner. And back to the topic of dating (why not?): my Italian dinner companion was lamenting the difficulty of dating all these "busy" women in New York. "Women in Italy," he said, "are not so busy". Mi dispiace, Alessandro, I sympathize, but I do need to go home and blog. Ciao!

Summer Surprise - Nick & Tony's, East Hampton - 136 N. Main St.

2009-08-31T21:06:00.000-07:00

As much as I am a Hamptons habitue, Nick & Tony's stands for much of what I, and many others, don't like about the Hamptons: the see and be seen place, impossible to get a weekend reservation anytime after July 4th, and a very moneyed clientele with perhaps not as much class. Nevertheless, I manage to find myself there from time to time -usually the dead of winter, or this time a Monday night in late August - and I have to concede that the food and ambience do not disappoint. A warm and inviting atmosphere in which, as a friend pointed out, you can still have an audible conversation with your dinner companions, despite the restaurant being full and buzzing. They have a wood-burning oven, which makes most of their menu tasty, vibrant, healthy, and reminiscent of dinner somewhere on the Mediterranean. I can recommend the whole fish, it was Branzino stuffed with lemons tonight, and the roasted chicken prepared in the wood oven, in which they make pizzas as well. Service was somewhat lacking (umm, we need a menu to be able to decide what to order?) but unpretentious and accommodating. I don't recommend hitting Nick and Tony's on a Saturday night in July or August, but an off night in the summer or winter can hit the spot.

Noodle Histrionics - Mr. Chow, 324 E. 57th St. b/tw 1st & 2nd

2009-08-05T20:07:00.000-07:00

Noodle histrionics, cougars and silverbacks galore, and a waiter who offered "MSG" as the Chinese spice that must've numbed my friend's tongue during his last dinner in Beijing, do not bode well for an extraordinary dining experience. Mr. Chow, while glamorous to the eye, is a little 2000-late and underwhelming overall. I felt lost in a New York past life, flush with cash and self-importance, and the live noodle maker and obsequious, uninformed wait-staff didn't make up for relatively bland, uninteresting and very expensive Chinese food ($35+ per entree). I had good company and good conversation, which made it all ok, and if I had to pick one thing to praise, the Peking duck, while dry and served with what could have been a Mexican flour tortilla, was five-spice-seasoned perfectly and satisifying with cucumber slices and plum sauce. I have a memory of visiting Mr. Chow in Tribeca three to four years ago and being kicked out of their bar: "the bar is only for diners". Preposterous and enough to make me not want to go back until required to for a business dinner this evening. Finally, tonight, I was a "diner" and now I'm not sure that I'm going back, ever.

DBGB - 299 Bowery b/tw 1st & Houston

2009-07-28T19:39:00.000-07:00

It was a sausage fest in more ways than one. Two ex-Navy Seals as my dinner companions and nothing but meat, and mostly sausage, on the menu. At the risk of sounding totally crass, I loved it! With not a reservation to be had on a Monday night in the dead of a recession, others are clearly loving DBGB's too. We sat in the bar area but still enjoyed a feast from the raw bar, the Frenchie burger (beef, pork belly, arugula and gruyere cheese) Tolouse sausage, the Chop Chop salad and a beer float (no root in that) for dessert. The place is fun and lively, the service a little slow, but the food wins every time and the food was great. Nothing delicate or too complex, but unique and wonderfully, easily flavorful. Even the salad was stand-out and the beer float was unusual, but a surprising treat. I'm going back and have my mind set on the Piggie burger (who could resist?) topped with pork BBQ and jalapeno mayo and, of course, I'll have to have that with a side of sausage.

Kefi - 505 Columbus Ave, b/tw 84th & 85th

2009-07-14T19:38:00.000-07:00

I am, admittedly, an Upper West Side hater, particularly when it comes to restaurants. I have yet to find a great one and Kefi was supposed to be it, but not quite. It's stark and cafeteria like in its ambience (upstairs anyway). The waiters in their blue T-shirts, might play differently beside the Aegean, but were lost in translation on Columbus Ave. More importantly, the food was mixed. Appetizers of fried calamari and dill tzatziki sauce and the foodie take on the Greek salad--chopped, mixed olives, caper berries--were almost perfect, but they were a cruel set-up for the mediocre-at-best entrees. My braised lamb shank and orzo was saucy yet flavorless and while my friend's lamb chops were grilled to perfection, the rice and scallion side was oversalted and still somehow thin on flavor. I am a fan of Donatella Arpaia's restaurant's overall, but Mia Dona, for example, on 58th b/tw 2nd & 3rd is a much better meal and experience. And, fyi, I'm an Upper East Side hater too.

Standard Grill - 846 Washington St., b/tw LW 12th & 13th

2009-06-24T19:37:00.000-07:00

A grown up Bar Martignetti and likely to give Pastis, Balthazar and Morandi a run for their money, the Standard Grill is one of the better bar/restaurant scenes seen in a while. I didn't think the Standard could pull it off (and in 2004 I didn't think the Meatpacking District could pull it off either) but the massive west side highway structure, which reminds me of my elementary school, a hospital and the Seattle Space Needle all wrapped into one, has added the final touch of revitalization to the MPD (do they actually pack meat there anymore, anywhere?). Check it out. Architecturally interesting, big open spaces, lively, stylish bar with adequate Euro to NY ratio, tasty enough food and enough bartenders to actually get you a drink when you belly up, not to mention the outstanding, outdoor beer garden. Didn't stay long, only had a drink or two and a few nibbles, but liked what I saw, just because there was life, vibe and an interesting crowd. Who wants to go back?

Table 8 - 25 Cooper Sq b/tw 5th & 6th Sts.

2009-06-21T19:35:00.000-07:00

Table 8, was not so great, but I will give it a second chance. I had high expectations: the place looks very cool, the menu is interesting, the chef has solid, global training and the restaurant has a track record in LA and SoBe. I wanted fine dining in a sleek, chic environement. I got hit or miss food, friendly, but unprofessional service and a noisy, harried room. Bright spots: the scallop & kumquat and fluke in red chili oil from the salt bar were excellent; the crispy soft shell crab was also perfectly seasoned and the Albarino at $38 was a steal. Disappointments: tell me what your menu is about and how to order from it - really, what is a salt bar? The halibut was dry, flavorless; the quail was over-seasoned and tasted too gamey to be fresh and the small bite side dishes were nearly inedible. I will try again, though, as not only do I want to snag a seat in the outdoor patio, but it can take time for a restaurant to hit its stride, and I am eager for Table 8 to be great.

Mayahuel - 304 E. 6th St. at 2nd Ave.

2009-06-01T19:34:00.000-07:00

You can't be one of those people who remembers their first experience with the porcelain god everytime you take a whiff of tequila and expect to get a drink at Mayahuel. Nothin' but tequila on this menu, but tequila used in some of the most creative and innovative ways: tea infused tequila; watermelon juice, tequila and cayenne pepper; tequila with mole-flavored bitters and, thankfully, plain 'ol sipping tequila. Mayahuel is worth a try just for the sheer entertainment of the drink menu, but it's table service only, so probably not good for groups bigger than 4. And, while I liked the cozy, dark wood and spanish-tiled downstairs, I'm not sure what type of interior decorating explosion occurred upstairs. Be prepared for red stained-glass windows, chandeliers, button-cushioned booths, foil-speckled walls and my grandmother' dresser against the main wall. I suppose after three of their cocktails you'd never notice the difference, and maybe that's the point! Try it for the tequila.

Flex Mussels

2009-05-22T19:33:00.000-07:00

When do I ever get up to 82nd St on the east side? Hardly ever, but found myself in the mid-70s this eve and luckily remembered an oyster shucker that I had read about in the NYer a few months back. Oyster shucker is gone, but the mussels still abound. Kudos to the Flex for expanding the boundaries of what you can do with mussels and, btw, at about $1 a lb, kudos to them for figuring out the right restaurant business model in a recession. Nevertheless, I likely will not be going back. My reasons: 1) 82nd St., b/tw Lex and 3rd 2) Too bright and slightly college cafeteria looking (give me cozy, comfortable, den/lair-like or glam, elegant; FM has some appeal, but ultimately sterile) 3) Mussels, while extraordinary sounding on the menu, are only slightly better than average. If you go, try the "Southern" - lobster stock, bourbon, corn & bacon and heavy on the butter. And, for me, ask them to bring the oyster shucker back!

Mas Farmhouse - 39 Downing St., b/tw Bedford & Varick Sts.

2009-05-21T17:10:00.000-07:00

You can only believe that Mas is a farmhouse to the extent that you believe that Tom Ford has designed and moved into this farmhouse. Yes, there was a communal table and the requisite brick wall, but Mas is much more sleek and glamorous than any farmhouse I've ever seen. Ambience aside--which was actually quite good, but upscale and not typical of your average WVillage dining experience--all NY foodies should try this place out. Mas is striving. The chef hails from Bouley Upstairs, there are two tasting menu options, and you can actually build your own tasting menu from the a la carte menu as well. The service is well-timed and well-orchestrated and the food is really top notch, although the fish dishes were slightly dry (cooking fish really separates the men from the boys) and the desserts were a slight disappointment - the rhubarb panna cotta a little too funky and the hazelnut chocolate torte not as luscious and decadent as you would expect. Nevertheless, I had one of the better dining experiences of 2009 at Mas. Great for a closing dinner, foodie parents in town wanting a NY dining experience, or a special occasion. Uno Mas por favor.
http://www.masfarmhouse.com/

Apiary - 60 3rd Ave., b/tw 10th & 11th

2009-05-16T19:33:00.000-07:00

Apiary is an E Village restaurant with Upper East Side aspirations, but one of the better meals out there for a 1-handle or less (depending on what you choose for wine). As an UES wannabe, the decor and scene are conservative, but not stuffy and still attractive. The service could use a little extra training and they couldn't figure out what to do with the music. But, all is forgiven, since the kitchen knows what they're doing and the food is worth it. I loved my spring vegetable salad, which was beautifully presented, delicate and yet incredibly flavorful. The Peking duck breast on a bed of celery root puree and lentils was, similarly, delicious. Scott Bryant, formerly of Veritas, is the chef and it shows both in the food and wine list. No booze in this spot, but a great selection of moderately priced wines from all over the world, in addition to the Veritas-hallmark $800 Bordeaux, Barolos and Burgundies. Good for a foodie date or dinner with the rents.

675 Bar - 675 Hudson St., b/tw Hudson and 9th Ave

2009-05-15T19:31:00.000-07:00

Show up before 11pm and 675 Bar is a great spot to hang out and have a few drinks with friends or a few drinks to meet new friends. A warren of small rooms on your way-in leads you to the main room, which is a vague reminder of the frat section (where I went to school, there were no houses, only sections) but clearly NY, and clearly trying to provide a little ambience/environment. There's even the requisite pool and foos (foose?) ball tables, but no one's really playing as there's a DJ and real cocktails and a good-looking, well-balanced crowd. After 11pm, I fear there are a few people who still think this is the velvet rope club, that I never had a desire to check out: Level V. Kudos to BR Guest for acknowledging the operating environment and cutting their losses on a circa-early-naughties (that's 00s) club and creating a den/diningroom/frat-section/all around comfortable/appealing bar to hang out and have a few cocktails. Just depart before the clubbies start showing up.

Tonda - 235 E. 4th St., b/tw Aves A & B

2009-04-29T19:30:00.000-07:00

Who are these Martini Boys anyway? They gush about Tonda in their review and while the pizza's were reasonably tasty, I'm close to uninspired to write anything because the place itself was somehow uninspiring, although not completely unappealing. In the old EU spot, you have to give them credit for attempting to redecorate one of the highly stylized AvRoKo spots and not butchering the thing to death. The atmosphere is kind of cool and relatively pleasant, although I would question their choice of sappy 80s music. We had a few, somewhat dull starters - a seafood salad and cauliflower salad which, I think, both had the same dressing on them - but the speck, gorgonzola and mozzarella pizza was actually pretty incredible. The service was spotty to poor, though, and I didn't go nuts with the wine or food ordering because, frankly, I was having a hard time reading their plastic covered menus in the candle light. Eh, maybe worth a try if you're in the hood and mood for pizza.

The Clerkenwell - 49 Clinton b/tw Rivington & Stanton

2009-04-19T19:29:00.000-07:00

UrbanDaddy is spreading urban myths. Clerkenwell is no Spotted Pig and while attempting to be a gastro-pub, it's barely even a pub. I do need to be lenient, as tonight was only their 4th night in operation, but it kinda showed. The staff had no idea what was on the menu, it was an eternity before we got even a drink and, despite a reservation for 12, they had us squeezed into a table that, maybe on a good day, was supposed to seat 8. Nevertheless, the food was actually not so bad - nowhere near the caliber of Spotted Pig, of course (the gnudi and blue cheese burger - my true loves in this world) but not bad grub all around. Not a whole lot of ambience in the place, but a few outdoor tables, which might count for something. I might be getting too old for the lower east side, but ultimately, for me, this was a step up from savoring lunch from the Dosa-man in Washington Square Park and that's about it. Watch, it will be the hottest place among the 25+ crowd within the next month.

Lillie's - 13 E. 17th St., b/tw Bway & 5th Ave

2009-04-17T19:28:00.000-07:00

Don't know about you folks, but I like to sweat when I'm working out, not when I'm having drinks with friends. Although much fun was had, I spent much of last night's happy hour at Lillie's staring longingly at the massive air pipe and multiple vents lining the ceiling that, for some strange reason (maybe the place is so new they don't know where the A/C switch is?) were not pumping cool air. Anyway, discomfort aside, Lillie's proved to be a good happy hour spot: large space, all bar with a few tables in the back for food. Supposedly decorated like an 1870s Belfast pub-- but, really, how would we know? -- it reminded me of Gingerman in midtown or, really, any other upscale-ish, NY Irish pub. Didn't get to sample the food, but it looked like pretty typical bar food. And, while there is no cocktail list or mixologists in this shop, the cabernet was pretty good and there is an interesting, but small, beer selection on tap. Check it out for midday work lunch or happy hour drinks.

Sorella and White Slab Palace - Allen & Delancey

2009-04-15T19:25:00.000-07:00

Double-dipping on a Tuesday night. Sinful, but such is life in NYC. Two new LES spots that are both worth a try: Sorella and White Slab Palace - diagonally across the street from eachother on Allen. Sorella: I'm in love -casually elegant Italian wine bar, the perfect decor from half barrels lining the ceiling, the balsa walls stained with red wine (the waitress made sure we knew they used the cheaper stuff) to the sedate, but modern and slightly glam back dining room. A good wine list with several Italian varietals, many of which I haven't heard of before (yes, even I can admit that) and small-plate food that is interesting and very tasty, despite missing a few beats here and there. Despite being a fan of classic rock, a music update is definitely required. I was ok with Zeppelin and Bowie, but Heart was nothing but a downer. Heart, really?? Perhaps that explains why there were only three of us in there for dinner, or maybe it's just because it's a Tuesday night.

Tuesday night is not over yet folks. From Sorella, we meandered to White Slab Palace where they were playing Morrisey, the lighting and vibe was intriguingly darker, and there were more than three people in the joint. Supposedly Scandinavian in theme, but you would only know it from the Acquavit in the refrigerators by the bar - you will know nothing after the bartender offers you a shot of this, though, so beware! WSP is about to break down a wall and add-on another dining room, start serving brunch and lunch - which will be great in the warmer weather as they have garage-door windows. Didn't get to taste the food, but my guess is I didn't miss much. Nevertheless, WSP is definitely on the list for a non-school-night follow-up visit. A good weekend night out: get your nourishment and catch-up with friends at Sorella on the later side on a Saturday and then cross the street to usher in Sunday morning at WSP. Just make sure to invite me!

Scuderia - 257 6th Ave., b/tw Bleecker & Houston

2009-04-11T19:20:00.000-07:00

What's in a name? Scuderia. Hate that one. Makes me think of Scud missiles or "M'am, you seem to have an acute case of scuderia". Yes, the word is associated with some fab Italian cars and seems to actually mean stable or team, referring to the Da Silvano team that started this W Village establishment, but still, not a good name. The food is mediocre at best. The wines are decent and decently priced, but the main attraction is that the place is fun! Noisy as hell, but there's a young, very cute and high energy crowd (and guys, there are tons of girls). Loved the Italian lessons piped into the bathroom, the custom designed sneakers- for sale -flung over the light fixtures above the bar, and the album covers that decorate the walls. They will also have 36 seats outdoors in time for warmer weather and between 10 Downing next door and Da Silvano and Bar Pitti across the street, this could be the next corner of West Broadway and Grand on a Sunday afternoon.

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L'Artusi - 228 W. 10th St., b/tw Bleecker & Hudson

2009-04-08T19:19:00.000-07:00

L'Artusi - y'all have heard of it because it's been written up everywhere, including the venerable New Yorker. It is the sister restaurant to the stealth success of Dell'Anima and the pair make two of the best W Village meals you can have these days. Dell'Anima has slightly more appeal - a little more relaxed, cozy and the original after all, but L'Artusi still delivers on food and wine: not a bad dish on the menu as far as I've tasted, and the wine list, all Italian, has a significant selection. But know your geography of Italy because the list, really a guide book, is organized by region, north to south. A helpful addition that all restaurants should adopt is a pairing guide of the varietals of each region and the best accompanying foods. Yes, yes, some of us should not need the guide, but a little assistance never hurts and if you've already shared one bottle at the bar, a lot of assistance at the table - guide book, waiter, sommelier and supportive friends - doesn't hurt either.

Minetta Tavern - 113 MacDougal St., b/tw Bleecker & W. 3rd

2009-04-01T19:17:00.000-07:00

For anyone who's had a boozy brunch at Balthazar, cougar-hunted or cougared-out at Pastis or pretended they were somewhere in Europe while lunching in the outdoor seats at Morandi Keith McNally has done it again in Minetta Tavern. He nails the decor, comfort and coolness level every time and the food, while not stand out, is good enough and consistent enough to make every restaurant in his empire a staple for brunch, lunch, dinner or even just drinks. It would be interesting to see him depart further from the French bistro/brasserie theme but if it ain't broke, don't fix it, I guess. My favorite is still Balthazar, but all his restaurants win me over every time because no matter how over-reserved or jammed they are, the hosts always manage to find you a table if you ask nicely enough. Good luck getting a rez at Minetta before summer, but this girl got the secret reservation number, so if you ask me nicely enough...

Casellula Cheese and Wine Cafe - 401 W. 52nd, b/tw 9th & 10th Aves.

2009-03-05T19:03:00.000-08:00

For the wine and cheese afficionado check out Casellula in Hell's Kitchen. Definitely worth a try for chunky wines by the glass and cheese by the flight, not to mention some clever names like Pig Ass Sandwich for the Cubano or Stanky Flight for the smelliest cheeses on the menu. Cheese with creative savory/sweet accompaniments (e.g. epoisse served with chocolate and nut toffee) was the highlight. Hell's Kitchen location a little bit of a detractor for me, but I'll definitely be going back. Join me?