Saturday, May 16, 2009

Apiary - 60 3rd Ave., b/tw 10th & 11th

Apiary is an E Village restaurant with Upper East Side aspirations, but one of the better meals out there for a 1-handle or less (depending on what you choose for wine). As an UES wannabe, the decor and scene are conservative, but not stuffy and still attractive. The service could use a little extra training and they couldn't figure out what to do with the music. But, all is forgiven, since the kitchen knows what they're doing and the food is worth it. I loved my spring vegetable salad, which was beautifully presented, delicate and yet incredibly flavorful. The Peking duck breast on a bed of celery root puree and lentils was, similarly, delicious. Scott Bryant, formerly of Veritas, is the chef and it shows both in the food and wine list. No booze in this spot, but a great selection of moderately priced wines from all over the world, in addition to the Veritas-hallmark $800 Bordeaux, Barolos and Burgundies. Good for a foodie date or dinner with the rents.

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