L'Artusi - 228 W. 10th St., b/tw Bleecker & Hudson

L'Artusi - y'all have heard of it because it's been written up everywhere, including the venerable New Yorker. It is the sister restaurant to the stealth success of Dell'Anima and the pair make two of the best W Village meals you can have these days. Dell'Anima has slightly more appeal - a little more relaxed, cozy and the original after all, but L'Artusi still delivers on food and wine: not a bad dish on the menu as far as I've tasted, and the wine list, all Italian, has a significant selection. But know your geography of Italy because the list, really a guide book, is organized by region, north to south. A helpful addition that all restaurants should adopt is a pairing guide of the varietals of each region and the best accompanying foods. Yes, yes, some of us should not need the guide, but a little assistance never hurts and if you've already shared one bottle at the bar, a lot of assistance at the table - guide book, waiter, sommelier and supportive friends - doesn't hurt either.