New York does not need another French bistro/brasserie mock-up nor another Italian, faux-rustic trattoria. For Italian, we can survive just fine with Morandi, Gemma, Il Buco and so many others that Civetta is just one more entrant in an already crowded scene. Civetta, unfortunately, does not stand out--neither with its decor, which is only a meager imitation of Gemma, nor with its food, which I found very salty, ill-conceived, and really only a step-up from any average Italian joint you'd find in any city in this country. Dare I say, only a step-up from the Olive Garden? The service was fine, but unnoticeable when you're striving to find something redeeming in the food. Just when you think all hope is lost, though, there is still reason to go to Civetta and that is the downstairs lounge. As I was finishing dinner, at a "respectable" (read early) hour with friends and friend's parents from out of town, it was clear that anyone entering the restaurant was really headed for the lounge downstairs and probably didn't even know that Civetta serves food. The lounge is a sizeable, but still cozy space with bar on one side and a grotto of booths on the outer walls. Add a DJ, stiff cocktails and a crowd dressed and liquored for Thursday night in NYC and you have yourself one little hotspot. Civetta, enjoy, but no dining allowed.
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