Thursday, November 5, 2009

Drinking in Church? - Tipsy Parson, 156 9th Ave., b/tw 19th & 20th

I think I met Tipsy Parson down south while in college and no surprise he (she?) made it up north and is now cooking southern-ish comfort food in Chelsea.  Only a week or so old, I hand it to Tipsy Parson for having things relatively in order.  They didn't have a reservation available for my group of five for primetime on a Thursday night, but after I left my number and suggested if they could figure something out, they should give me a call back - they actually did!  This never happens.  The hostess worked hard once we got there and, despite her page-long list of names, reassured us she would "make it happen".  She did make it happen, and I give her credit for that, but we sat almost two hours after we arrived, at which time I was about ready to gnaw my arm off.  Which brings me to the food.  Tipsy Parson was a good meal, with some bright highlights: the hush puppies and their pungent vinegary sauce; the blue cheese, served with figs and pancetta, but also made by students of animal husbandry at Clemson University (South Carolina for those of you who have never been south of the Mason Dixon line. But maybe one of you can tell me what animal husbandry actually is?) and the braised pork shank with stewed apples and prunes.  I couldn't get too excited about the food, though, or Tipsy Parson overall, as it fits a mold that is already getting a little moldy in the NY dining scene: southern, comfort, locavore-ish, down-homeish cuisine.  Case in point - for the second time in less than a week, I saw a Concord grape mint julep on the drink list and a glammed-up mac and cheese and braised shank of something on the dinner menu.  I succumbed to the shank and didn't regret it, but overall wanted something more interesting.  Tipsy Parson is worth a try, but unfortunately this jaded palate, seeking newness, boldness and innovation, needs more than just a good meal.  

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