Good Grief - Hotel Griffou - 21 9th St., b/tw 5th & 6th Aves.

Whatever you do, do not go to Hotel Griffou for the food.  It's been a while since I've had as near an upalatable meal in New York City as dinner tonight at Griffou. The menu is caught between lots of lobster and some, supposed, American classics, e.g. Steak Diane (was this ever considered good eating and was it ever really acceptable to serve this outside of the home?) The selection is poor and among what we chose (lobster thermidor fondue, lobster succotash, duck confit poutine, pork cutlets and salad nicoise) there was not a discernable flavor among any of the dishes other than maybe salt and/or fat.  Frankly, I really just assumed that it was all flavored with MSG, given that everything was saucy, glistening and maybe narcotically flavorful, but truly just disgusting.  Also, unless you're willing to go $150 or above on the wine, there are not many choices on the list and I'm pretty sure the insipid $75 bottle of Sancerre we had, retails for about $14.  Food-wise, Griffou is extremely disappointing and I'm not sure how a kitchen in Manhattan, serving $27 entrees, could get it this wrong.  Nevertheless, I'm clear on why they get away with it: Griffou has appeal and intrigue in its ambience, which is clandestine, cozy and varied in that there are six rooms, all decorated differently.  Moreover, it's a "scene" and somehow has become a hot-bed for celebrities.  A few months ago a friend went and shared in JLo's birthday dinner.  Tonight, a friend spotted Sienna Miller.  I doubted my friend, until I saw Jude Law walk in the front door, probably fresh from his performance in Hamlet (which is great by the way, but I'll stick with the food critiquing).  Not only did we get a good, long look at Mr. Law, but I think we got some scoop too--spotting Jude and Sienna in the same place.  Is it reconciliation?  Whatever it is, call out to all celebs: please demand better in your food.  NYC has so much more to offer than stylized joints, like Griffou, that serve the expensive equivalent of greasy nachos and wings. If you want to check out the scene, go for drinks only.   

Could do Better - Civetta - 98 Kenmare b/tw Lafayette & Mulberry

New York does not need another French bistro/brasserie mock-up nor another Italian, faux-rustic trattoria.  For Italian, we can survive just fine with Morandi, Gemma, Il Buco and so many others that Civetta is just one more entrant in an already crowded scene.  Civetta, unfortunately, does not stand out--neither with its decor, which is only a meager imitation of Gemma, nor with its food, which I found very salty, ill-conceived, and really only a step-up from any average Italian joint you'd find in any city in this country.  Dare I say, only a step-up from the Olive Garden?  The service was fine, but unnoticeable when you're striving to find something redeeming in the food.  Just when you think all hope is lost, though, there is still reason to go to Civetta and that is the downstairs lounge.  As I was finishing dinner, at a "respectable" (read early) hour with friends and friend's parents from out of town, it was clear that anyone entering the restaurant was really headed for the lounge downstairs and probably didn't even know that Civetta serves food.  The lounge is a sizeable, but still cozy space with bar on one side and a grotto of booths on the outer walls.  Add a DJ, stiff cocktails and a crowd dressed and liquored for Thursday night in NYC and you have yourself one little hotspot.  Civetta, enjoy, but no dining allowed.

Standard Grill - 846 Washington St., b/tw LW 12th & 13th

A grown up Bar Martignetti and likely to give Pastis, Balthazar and Morandi a run for their money, the Standard Grill is one of the better bar/restaurant scenes seen in a while. I didn't think the Standard could pull it off (and in 2004 I didn't think the Meatpacking District could pull it off either) but the massive west side highway structure, which reminds me of my elementary school, a hospital and the Seattle Space Needle all wrapped into one, has added the final touch of revitalization to the MPD (do they actually pack meat there anymore, anywhere?). Check it out. Architecturally interesting, big open spaces, lively, stylish bar with adequate Euro to NY ratio, tasty enough food and enough bartenders to actually get you a drink when you belly up, not to mention the outstanding, outdoor beer garden. Didn't stay long, only had a drink or two and a few nibbles, but liked what I saw, just because there was life, vibe and an interesting crowd. Who wants to go back?