Thursday, March 4, 2010

Bored - The Breslin - 16 W. 29th, b/tw BWay & 5th Aves

I realized I was bored with the NY restaurant scene upon my first visit to the Breslin.  One of the most anticipated, awaited restaurant openings of 2009 in NYC and, frankly, I just felt played.  I've seen this artisanal-burger, faux euro-comfort food movie before, and I somewhat resent the piped-in Arcade Fire, Cold Play soundtrack that screams you're 30-something, living in NY, trying to be a non-chalant hipster, but really working for and making enough money to support a family of six.  I was a living cliche the first try.  Tonight was my second try and I can't say that it's gotten much better, as with all of the buzz and it being one of the hardest rezzies to score right now, the Breslin is overrun with diners, drinkers, happy hour revelers, too many Wall Streeters and, dare I say it, too many boys!  More importantly, the food--assuming you can choose something from the eclectic menu that actually really tempts your palate--while packed with flavor, is overly salted and not at all subtle, elegant, or refined.  Actually, just give me real, earthy, flavorful, natural and not overwrought, and I don't need elegant or refined at all.  I will come clean, though, and admit that the food and NY restaurant scene has failed to deliver much inspiration for me as of late.  This must be a winter malaise and reflective of a season in which it's much better to just cook at home, but from my winter rundown so far--Sorella, Corsino, Balthazar, Spotted Pig, Maialino, Travertine, Minetta Tavern, Faustina and Breslin, twice, the only true highlights were Travertine's glam decor and milk-braised, pork-shoulder gnocchi and Minetta Tavern's cozy bar area and perfectly-fired filet mignon with Roquefort cheese.  Breslin doesn't even hit the radar screen, unfortunately.  Been there. Done that. And don't want to be smacked in the face with it.

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